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psquare75
03-16-2007, 09:52 PM
Has anyone done a heater core swap in a 73-77?

The '74 Chassis Manual makes it look easier than I
think it is. According to the manual, you un-do about
five nuts on the firewall side and pull the heater
case back.

It doesn't have removing the blower assy as a pre-req,
but from what I can tell 3 or 4 of these nuts are
concealed by the blower assy and all the A/C evap etc
stuff on the firewall side. My A/C is functioning
quite well. I converted it over to 134A, after it
hadn't worked foro 20 or so years. I'd like to not
have to monkey w/ the A/C if at all possible.

It will eventually get cold even here in GA, and I'd
like to get the core replaced. I've hd it bypassed
since Easter Sunday when it spring a leak on a nice
Sunday drive.

I'm heading to Fla next weekend so heat will
definitely not be an issue.

Any previous 73-77 real world experience/advice in
heater core replacement welcome here.

Mike


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Fri Oct 8, 1999 1:12 am


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mike dziadik <dziadik@xxxxx.xxxx
dziadik@xxxxx.xxxx
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On Thu, 7 Oct 1999 18:12:17 -0700 (PDT) mike dziadik <dziadik@...>
writes:
>From: mike dziadik <dziadik@...>
>
>Has anyone done a heater core swap in a 73-77?
>
>The '74 Chassis Manual makes it look easier than I
>think it is. According to the manual, you un-do about
>five nuts on the firewall side and pull the heater
>case back.

Sorry. Never did that one. I did have the plenum/manifold, whatever you
call it off. The part I'm trying to name is the black plastic box that is
directly above your front passenger's feet. I had a rain leak in the
fresh air duct and took the part off to put fiberglass up in there.
Didn't work. I now put a few sections of newpaper on the floor over on
the passenger's side to soak up the rain.
(Grabbing my cane and pulling up my suspenders) You kids think that's
hard? On my '67 Country Squire I had to take off the right fender to
change the heater core. Gave out in December of course. Drove around town
for a long time like that. Ahh, the good old days. Seems like lots of
heater cores are tough. SAAB 9000s, for example....
BTW, the "official" shop manual I use is the '74 Chevrolet shop manual,
both volumes. I also have the Haynes Cutlass manual, the one that gives
cylinder head bolt torque on the 350 as 110 pound-feet. Ask me how I
found out that was wrong. Later editions have revised that figure. My
body manual is the Fisher for '76. I think I've got most things covered
by now.
Blair

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Fri Oct 8, 1999 1:45 am


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Blair W Thompson <b_thom@xxxx.xxxx
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