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77 Cutlass
09-12-2007, 08:36 PM
Just wondering if anyone knows if the light on the face of the radio in a 77 Cutlass Supreme can be replaced. Radio plays fine, but doesn't light up. Sounds minor, I know. But if it's supposed to work, I want it to work. I'm also in the market for an AM-FM 8 track for same car. One that WORKS! I've had my fill of ebay trash. Thanks.

58thndy
09-12-2007, 09:51 PM
Yes it can. Depends on the radio how complex the job is. From 1977 CSM...

AM, AM-FM and AM-FM-Stereo radios can replace the lamp with the radio in the dash. A Toronado or windshield antenna Cutlass AM-FM-tape can too.

A tape radio in a Starfire, Omega, 88/98 or power antenna Cutlass has to come out of the car. Top cover has to be removed to access the bulb.

AM radio: set tuner at 160, then pry the dial face out by inserting a feeler gauge or thin screwdriver at the RIGHT side of it, then move face to the left. Pry forward to release it from retainer tangs. Pull the lamp toward you out of its hanger, then R&R lamp #1893.

AM-FM-stereo:Press the dial face in against the spring at the top, then rotate the bottom of it out of the radio. There's a screw at RIGHT side of the pointer backplate. Remove it, then the backplate. You should be able to access the bulb clip to R&R lamp #216.

AM-FM-tape in Toro and windshield antenna Cutlass: Hold the tape door UP. Use a thin blade screwdriver to pivot the bulb hanger down for access, then R&R lamp #563.

Reverse steps to reinstall.

I've done an AM and an AM-FM and they're easier than it sounds, and way easier than R&R the radio unit (71-76 88-98-Toro especially, half the dash has to come out to remove it).

77 Cutlass
09-16-2007, 06:43 PM
Great instructions! I followed them to the letter. Happened just as you said. BUT, even a new bulb won't work. Tried three. Got any more suggestions?

58thndy
09-18-2007, 11:03 PM
Some of these cars, the dial light only works with the dash lights ON, and dims with the instrument lighting. I think by 77 they'd got away from that though the CSM wiring diagrams show it tied into the I/P lighting.

Sounds like radio may have to come out. Look for a GRAY wire going into the radio housing or the harness plug; that is the dial lamp power feed. It may have come unplugged. Also check the radio grounds.

Good luck. I understand wanting stuff to work per design.

77 Cutlass
09-19-2007, 12:33 PM
Well, 58thndy. I pulled in the garage last night and turned the headlights on to check my distance from the wall in front of me. No instrument lights. When I got in and read your last post I knew the problem. I found the instrument lamp fuse and replaced it. Since I'm never out after dark I never noticed they didn't work. It didn't hurt to replace the bulb anyway.
Please, no "down south" or "blonde" jokes. I feel like a dunce! :o
Anyway, you're still a genius! :D

58thndy
09-19-2007, 07:42 PM
You'll be aight! When I got my first 64 Starfire, i pulled my hair out because the glovebox, trunk, and underhood lights didn't work. Replaced bulbs, chased wires, sent my soul to torment swearing at it and the people who built it. Then one day the light bulb went on- literally. Those cars have to have the LIGHTS ON for the accessory lamps to work. I thought it was the stupidest thing I'd ever heard of when I discovered it, but it makes sense. You'll never run a battery down from a malfunctioning trunk or glovebox light with it wired like that.

And you would be surprised at the other hardcore Olds people who have gotten trapped by that same thing...

Not a genius. I just have a PhD from Hardknox University.;)

77 Cutlass
09-19-2007, 08:03 PM
Well, I died laughing at your story! Glad to know I have company.
While I have you on the phone, I have a taillight problem. Passenger side on a 76 supreme. The lights work perfectly. But when the brake is pushed, the bottom bulb goes out. Bulb is fine. I've interchanged it with the others. Blinkers seem to work although rather than blinking together, the top blinks and then the bottom. It just alternates back and forth. This is a real head scratcher for me. They were working fine before I had it painted. Any ideas?

58thndy
09-19-2007, 09:52 PM
I've got that exact same problem with the Pace Car, and it also started after it was taken apart for paint and reassembled.

It's likely a ground problem. What happens with those great GM sockets is the metal sleeve in it gets loose after so many years and the bulb loses its ground path to the car body, which goes thru the sleeve, the taillight pod, and the extension housing-to-body bolts. Clean any metal-to-metal contact surfaces and see if that helps. You may have to get new sockets, and worst case is you may have to run a ground wire from socket to car body.

The Pace Car has always had issues with the RF park/signal too, and I think that problem is actually in the car wiring.

With impact bumpers, there is no ground connection thru the bumper shocks to the frame. So- the socket has a ground wire that disappears into the wiring harness. I haven't found the frame end of it yet; it appears to be somewhere around the headlight pods per the CSM wiring diagram.

When I got the car it actually had a piece of 24 ga telephone wire spliced into the ground wire and run to the frame. Didn't like the look of it so spliced the ground wire back together and wallah. Spliced the phone wire back.

Looks like one benefit of this forum is it might get me off my arse and go fix some of this stuff!