More power out of a 1974 olds rocket

[Tom]

What is the most efficient way to gain signicant horsepower from a 1974 olds cutlass 350 rocket? I don't want to go nuts but there must be a fairly inexpensive way to boost the HP

any idea's

Thanks

[first car]

drop in a 455

[MrRocket]

Everything depends on what you want.

How much horspower is you goal?

What do you currently have? (four barrel carb, dual exhaust, any modifications) ?

What type of car do you want? Crusier, street rod, street-strip car...what?

I put a big block in my car because it was the first engine i found ready to run. You said in your op that you wanted to know how to boost hp in your 350, so I'm assuming that you want to build it and not drop in a 455.

Many, many variables from adding dual exhaust or a new cam and lifters, to changing the heads or even changing the gears in the rear end. Being more specific to what you want and can afford will give people more knowledge to advise you with.

[Tom]

Everything depends on what you want.

How much horspower is you goal?

What do you currently have? (four barrel carb, dual exhaust, any modifications) ?

What type of car do you want? Crusier, street rod, street-strip car...what?

I put a big block in my car because it was the first engine i found ready to run. You said in your op that you wanted to know how to boost hp in your 350, so I'm assuming that you want to build it and not drop in a 455.

Many, many variables from adding dual exhaust or a new cam and lifters, to changing the heads or even changing the gears in the rear end. Being more specific to what you want and can afford will give people more knowledge to advise you with.

I purchased the car as a cruiser but would like more performance if i can afford it. I am not much of a mechanic but I do know I am going to put dual exhaust on it next year. It has a 350 4 barrel that probably generates about 200 hp as it currently sits. Besides the dual exhaust, I was just wondering the most efficient way to boost the HP enough for decent performance out of the hole and better top end. Nothing to radical just want to get it out of the "gutless" range and maybe sound a little better.

The engine has less than 30,000 miles on it and still has all of the pollution junk attached. I would not be doing the work myself and could spend up to $1500 or so if it is worthwhile. Otherwise, I will keep it a gutlass for now and maybe swap engines down the road.

Thanks!

[W451973]

Tom.

Since cruising is the ultimate goal then I would suggest a mild gear change to anywhere between a 3:08 to a 3:23 or 3:42. Nothing bigger. Adding a posi at that time would be would be a great idea. You will notice a huge difference just changing the gear.

Dual exhaust for sure. No bigger then a 2-1/5 inch pipe. Headers are a pain but well worth it in the long run.

HEI distruibuter is a must. Make sure it is wired correctly. Straight to the fuse box. Add a kill switch.

Then have someone who actually knows what they are doing "tune" the package. There is more to tuning then just setting the timing and new parts.

Now those are all the quick and easist best bang for the buck suggestions but if you really want to add to it and have the cash, find a set of 1968-1972 heads. I prefer the 1972, 7a heads. You don't really need any port work, but adding 2 inch intake valves, a little bowl blending for the valves, cut at least .030 of them to COMPENSATE for the thicker head gaskets. At least have them reconditioned if nothing else. A matched cam kit with springs. New timing chain set. Performer intake. NOT the rpm intake. KEEP the q-jet carb. YOU DO NOT WANT THE PERFORMER CAM KIT OR EDELBROCK CARB. There are better cams out there then the "generic" performer stuff. The "correctly" built and tuned q-jet will out perform any edelbrock carb out there. The only downfall is you have to add an electric choke to the q-jet when using the performer intake. I personally think Edelbrock did that perposely.

[Tom]

Tom.

Since cruising is the ultimate goal then I would suggest a mild gear change to anywhere between a 3:08 to a 3:23 or 3:42. Nothing bigger. Adding a posi at that time would be would be a great idea. You will notice a huge difference just changing the gear.

Dual exhaust for sure. No bigger then a 2-1/5 inch pipe. Headers are a pain but well worth it in the long run.

HEI distruibuter is a must. Make sure it is wired correctly. Straight to the fuse box. Add a kill switch.

Then have someone who actually knows what they are doing "tune" the package. There is more to tuning then just setting the timing and new parts.

Now those are all the quick and easist best bang for the buck suggestions but if you really want to add to it and have the cash, find a set of 1968-1972 heads. I prefer the 1972, 7a heads. You don't really need any port work, but adding 2 inch intake valves, a little bowl blending for the valves, cut at least .030 of them to COMPENSATE for the thicker head gaskets. At least have them reconditioned if nothing else. A matched cam kit with springs. New timing chain set. Performer intake. NOT the rpm intake. KEEP the q-jet carb. YOU DO NOT WANT THE PERFORMER CAM KIT OR EDELBROCK CARB. There are better cams out there then the "generic" performer stuff. The "correctly" built and tuned q-jet will out perform any edelbrock carb out there. The only downfall is you have to add an electric choke to the q-jet when using the performer intake. I personally think Edelbrock did that perposely.

Wow, thank you for the great post...I will have a great base now to start from.

Tom

[W451973]

Your welcome.

[Olds-Nut]

I installed an A-4 aluminium intake, Holley spreadbore carburetor, ACCEL HEI distributor, Headers, 2 1/2" dual exhaust w/flowmasters. Seems to have woke up a rather sleepy 350 2 barrel Rocket in my 73 Delta 88 just fine. It is not the fastest thing on the road by far, the performance is much better, it pulls a lot harder when you flog it. Best of all it maintains great driveability and decent gas mileage. Don't know what you are after, but it worked for me.