A/C stumper !

[Piazza]

I have checked the freon and it is dead on and the compersor kicks on, but still no cold air? any ideas :confused:

[sledhead2]

when you move controls do you here doors opening in side car? My guess would be the doors are not opening up. they are controlled by vacuum. make sure vacuum routing is correct.

[75 HURST]

What kind of pressure readings do you have? Is the suction line cold when the car is running. Check that and we can go from that
Doug

[jrsixx]

I agree with both possibilities, if the low side(larger line) is cold when running, and the high side (smaller line) is hot, then the problem is with the blend air door, actuator, or vacuum to it. If the lines are the same temp when running, the problem lies elsewhere, compressor, orifice tube (if it's got one?), plugged or smashed line somewhere, or has too much or too little freon.

[Piazza]

My presure reading is in the recomended blue area, I went and bought a recahrge kit. The vac lines seem to be working and run as the service doc recomends. The larger line is cool, not cold and the small line is HOT!!!!
Maybe related but whan I put the defrosters on I get no air flow from the vents bu the window? :confused:

[jrsixx]

Does the airflow change at all? def to vent to floor? If not, I'm going with a vacuum issue to the inside.

[jrsixx]

OK, scratch that last thought, the temp door is cable actuated, if the control feels sloppy, or if you don't hear a "thud" when you go full cold to full hot, you may have a broken or disconnected cable. Not sure where the cable runs, I was just looking at a spare control head I have and saw the cable. You should be able to look under the control, maybe take out the ashtray?, and see the cable, follow it and see where it goes.

[hurst73]

It could be that the condenser is plugged or the fam is not pulling enough air through it. When you say the refrigerant is right on the money, ho do you know? Has it been retrofitted to use R134? If so, have you put a manifold gauge set on it, and what are the pressures?

[Piazza]

Ok maybe not right on but when i put the guage on it it reads about 30 when the compersor is on.:confused:

If the condenser os pluged how do i check that ?

[75 HURST]

If the condenser was plugged you would have high head pressure and the compressor should kick out the right way would be to hook up guages to know for sure
Doug

[Piazza]

when I hooked up the guage I got a reading between 20 and 45, dead in the center.

[hurst73]

As much as I know how we all want to be able to fix everything ourselves, some things we should leave to a professional. They will have recovery equipment to draw out the refrigerant, evacuate all of the moisture out of the system, and weigh the correct amount of refrigerant and charge the system. They will also be able to read the manifold gauges to determine if there is a problem. Just a suggestion.

[damaged442]

Do you know what kind of refrigerant is in there? Are you running R-12 or has the system been retrofitted to run R-134a. They run different temps/ pressures/oils, etc. I'm guessing since you said you purchased a recharge kit, you've got R-134a. If you don't, well, it's not going to be a functional compressor for long. It's been a while since I've looked at all the specs, but I'd have a pro look to check it out...just to be on the safe side.

[ebayalias]

Not a lot of info to work with, but here goes. When you start the A/C, your clutch in the center of the pulley will engage and start to spin. Refrigerant will flow to the condensor and condense into a liquid, it will flow into the evap by presure differential. You will have some sort of metering device that regulates the flow into the evap. The device creates a pressure drop, that causes the liquid to flash into a vapor picking up the heat of the air going through it, and carrying it back to the compressor to start the process again.

You say you have evap pressure in the good range, I'll assume that means you have a can of 134 with the gauge attached to it. In general, that says you're comp and metering device are ok. To an extent, it also clears your condensor. If the evap was clogged, or air flow was restricted, your pressures would be low, and the return hose very cold. As your pressure is good, and the return is only cool, that indicates your system is working somewhat properly, so your fault may be elsewhere.

First, check your heater core to make sure it is not flowing water into the system. Put a thermometer into a vent, and run the system. Get the temp drop from entering to leaving temp.15 to 20 degrees is a reasonable differential. I recommend leaving your doors open so the entering temp does not drop on you as you test it. Take any device that will not damage your heater hose, like a vise grip and 2 wood blocks, and close off a heater hose. Wait 5 minutes and see if the temps drop. You have to return air doors that route in air from the car and the cowl section respectively. You also have a vent door that runs the air through the heater section as well. The hoses are color coded to confirm proper connections. It is also pssible that your system is working properly, but the air pressure is being lost in the dash, and not coming out where you want it to. I hope this helps.

Or, you could have a demon living in the dash