Temp Gauge

[Piazza]

Any Ideas for a working gas gauge, working oil pressure gauge ,and a not working temp gauge. I assume it is not a grounding problem since the other gauges from the rally pac are working. also when I put the rear defogger on the GEN lights up.:confused:

[zodiacblue442]

Maybe a bad temp. sending unit or maybe the printed circuit board (pcb) in the gauge cluster is bad. A rally gauge pac my brother had once had a bad pcb. The temp. and fuel gauges worked correctly, but the oil pressure gauge was not accurate. The needle bounced all over the place.

[b/w442]

Any Ideas for a working gas gauge, working oil pressure gauge ,and a not working temp gauge. I assume it is not a grounding problem since the other gauges from the rally pac are working. also when I put the rear defogger on the GEN lights up.:confused:

My gauges are Ok, but I have the same problem with the gen light when the rear defogger is on with my 74. I guess it is the current drain. I was wondering if anyone has more info on it.

[THE MALIGOON]

My gauges are Ok, but I have the same problem with the gen light when the rear defogger is on with my 74. I guess it is the current drain. I was wondering if anyone has more info on it.


I would like to know as well because when I hooked up all the wires and stuff and clicked the defog on to see if it worked my gen light came on as well HHHHMMMM eagerly awaiting this one

[74grannysup]

Being an electrician we usually step up the wire size to make up for voltage drop. But I know cars are a little different. Or the alternators getting worn out.

[THE MALIGOON]

I know On mine both alternator and battery are brand new, My car just came out of 10 year storage from previous owner and I was not taking any chances

[Revots12]

I just fixed my non working temp gauge, got an aftermarket sender, installed it, same problem, temp gauge still inop, went through the hassle of finding a NOS temp sending unit, replaced it and the gauge was still inop! Finally I got my head out of my ass and decided to check the thermostat, Well imagine my surprise when i found the thermostat STUCK WIDE OPEN ! The thermostat was actually broken causing it to stay wide open all the time. Replaced the thermostat (which was an original, only have 60k on my 77 403) with a nice Stant Superstat, filled the cooling system and let it warm up, and now the temp gauge works great now and my heater KICKS ASS ! ! Imagine that ! Just my 2 cents about the temp gauge.

[Piazza]

what temp stat would work for a 455 ci motor
160,180,195? :confused:

[b/w442]

I think the 195 is stock, but I use a 180 thermostat.

[Piazza]

What is the advantage from one to another?

[zodiacblue442]

what temp stat would work for a 455 ci motor
160,180,195? :confused:

b/w442 is right, a 195 'stat is stock. I've got a 160 in my 442 and my race car, and a 180 in my Supreme. The race car heats up quickly so I want to get the coolant flowing as soon as possible. I don't drive my 442 in the winter so I can use a lower temperature 'stat. That's why I've got 160's in those two cars and they are both big blocks. The heater is still warm in the 442 for chilly mornings and evenings. The Supreme with a 180 'stat I used to drive year round and it's got a 350 c.i. engine.

The difference between the 160, 180, and 195 thermostats is simply those are the temperatures in degrees F when the thermostat is fully open. I'd run a 160 or 180 in your 455. Those big blocks hold alot of heat once they get warmed up and getting them to cool sooner than later would be good.

[Kev442]

Gen light on w/ rear defog usually means too little output from the alt at low RPM. You should have a 90 amp alternator also, many owners in the early days were too cheap to pay for a replacement 90 amp and would throw a 65 amp on instead. My buddy got an 150 amp serpentine driven alt for his plow truck on epay. Battery would go dead from lifting and lowering the plow. I think the full output of 150 amps was available at 800 RPM!

[THE MALIGOON]

Gen light on w/ rear defog usually means too little output from the alt at low RPM. You should have a 90 amp alternator also, many owners in the early days were too cheap to pay for a replacement 90 amp and would throw a 65 amp on instead. My buddy got an 150 amp serpentine driven alt for his plow truck on epay. Battery would go dead from lifting and lowering the plow. I think the full output of 150 amps was available at 800 RPM!

yea thats what mine is, a 90 amp (brand new). so should I jump to a higher one ??

[Piazza]

Are there any markings on the alternator that would tell me the output?

[Kev442]

I doubt you are going to drain the battery like happened to me back in the 80's. I had rear defogger, front defrost on high, windshield wipers and headlights on driving through town in a snowstorm. Gen light was not on, but when I went to leave, the battery was dead! That being said, this is the type recommended for high load stereos and such. *I do not know this company, it is an example!* 75 amps at idle. 140 at 1200 RPM. Looks like a good alt at a good price to me though.

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/ho-adr0336%20-%2010si-140%20amp-%203%20wire%20setup?&caSKU=ho-adr0336%20-%2010si-140%20amp-%203%20wire%20setup&caTitle=HIGH%20OUTPUT%20CHEVY%203-WIRE%20ALTERNATOR%20140%20AMP%2065-85