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ragz442
05-03-2007, 10:35 PM
77-442

"cartoonized" [I was messin' around with the edit function in my photo album......:D ].

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/720000-720999/720843_11_full.jpg

before final paint and installation

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/684000-684999/684771_24_full.jpg

final product

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/684000-684999/684771_56_full.jpg

POST EM IF YA GOT EM.

ragz442
05-03-2007, 10:45 PM
76 Cutlass Supreme

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/684000-684999/684771_85_full.jpg

This engine is all original, the valve covers have never been off. That's the original paint on the covers [what's left of it]. I need to pull and paint it.

PSU442
05-05-2007, 11:23 AM
wow, my 350 looks exactly like your 350 (as in amount of grime/wear of paint.) So, Todd -- is it even worth trying to paint your engine without taking it out of the car?

ragz442
05-05-2007, 08:15 PM
My brother powerwashed, sandblasted and painted his '65 Cutlass 330 in frame about 5 years ago, still looks great. I was going to do a t/chain and engine gaskets on the '76 and as easy as these are to pull, I thinks it's less work. Plus you can do a good job on engine bay, crossmember etc.

PSU442
05-05-2007, 09:14 PM
hmm... would that require pulling the distributor and everything electrical? how did your brother protect the outside of the car when washing/blasting? Can the inner-fenders be pulled with the engine intact? Thanks for the help, this seems like a good, low-buck weekend project.

ragz442
05-05-2007, 09:39 PM
Dist/electrical: yes, no-biggie

Protected with: plastic, ductape

Inner fenders can be removed w/out pulling motor, but you got to pull fenders. Again no biggie, that way you can clean/detail frame, core support, firewall and c arms. You can pull the whole clip off as one if you want. When removing inner fender to fender bolts, soak them with some good penatrating oil before hand and take your time, the clips like to rip out of the plastic. Some other tips I can think of would be to label any shims, bolts etc. so they go back in their proper spot, mark location of hood at hinges. If all your panels are lined up to start with, they'll stay that way. Tape all panel edges with quality masking tape before removing and installing. It's also a great time [when fenders are off] to replace door hinge pins and bushings, remove each hinge one at a time and rebuild, that way you won't lose your door gaps. Your going to probably need more than a weekend, unless you get some good helpers :D. Good luck.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/684000-684999/684771_25_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/684000-684999/684771_26_full.jpg

keith455
05-06-2007, 12:30 AM
hmm... would that require pulling the distributor and everything electrical?

I thought this was the beauty of the olds engine. the dist doesn't go through the intake like in a chevy engine so you can pull the intake and leave the dist alone.

ragz442
05-06-2007, 02:14 AM
I thought this was the beauty of the olds engine. the dist doesn't go through the intake like in a chevy engine so you can pull the intake and leave the dist alone.

You don't have to pull the distributor, but if your going to be sandblasting you want to make sure everything is sealed up good. If I'm pulling the motor, I always remove it so it dosn't get damaged.

damaged442
05-06-2007, 10:29 PM
Here are the pics of my engines. The 442 has 98K miles, and the 77 has over 143K. They need some cleaning that's for sure, I just don't have the funds to pull the motors at this point and give them the attention they need. The 77 blows some smoke and leaks pretty badly, if you look really hard you might be able to see some of that original blue paint under there. It's funny the difference painting the air cleaner and putting on a new sticker makes. I've gotta do that with the 442 this summer. Every spring I get the list of everything I want to do to them. Every fall when I put them away, it is a miracle if one thing on that list gets done. On the bright side, even with two kids, I am glad I am still able to keep em!

442MUCH
06-20-2007, 12:28 AM
My 455 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/vttedrm/thumbsup.gif

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/vttedrm/Image086.jpg

texxas8902
06-25-2007, 11:15 PM
A couple of years and 8000 or so miles since rebuild. I polished the intake and other engine bolts and coated them with matte clear Krylon. Matte clear used on bolt heads failed after a year,(got too hot maybe?) they looked so nice and clean at first. Haven't really worried too much about it, I'll paint them if I need to remove them for some reason. It's a little dusty and I got caught in the rain with it twice today, otherwise it hadn't been in the rain in a couple of years because of course the t tops leak.:rolleyes:

brad442
06-26-2007, 08:36 PM
Hey Todd,

Does your 350 engine color in your Supreme look close to the 455 blue from the early 70's? You said the valve covers have never been off and that blue looks different than other '76-'77 engines I have seen down here. When I looked at that '76 442 (which was also built in Lansing) it too looked like the old W-30 455 blue color. The valve covers had never been off of it as it still had the stamp "Timing ok" on it and you could tell the bolts had never been touched. They were dirty, but no scratches from wrenches. I'm curious if the Lansing plant used a different blue than the Arlington plant. When I painted my engine (some years ago) I matched it to the GM blue that it appeared to be close enough to. Interesting stuff to me...

ragz442
06-26-2007, 10:34 PM
Brad, yea the color appears to be the same metallic blue they used on the 455's, I do know it's the original paint. I believe they went to the lighter corporate blue in '77.

73431Cutlass
06-26-2007, 11:25 PM
Here is my engine bay.... Just added the Oldsmobile valve covers and the paint came out a little too orangish more so than redish, oh well no show car.

http://i8.tinypic.com/68hr1wp.jpg

Sorry for the large pic...
The engine bay is dirty and havent had time to scrub it down since I got it back fro the paint shop...

texxas8902
06-27-2007, 12:03 AM
Brad, yea the color appears to be the same metallic blue they used on the 455's, I do know it's the original paint. I believe they went to the lighter corporate blue in '77.

My Arlington 76 was the corporate blue when I got my car and it had never been repainted. I repainted it the same color but used the 73 Oldsmobile script valve covers. Not that you can see them much on a car with an A/C compressor.

ragz442
06-28-2007, 09:00 PM
My Arlington 76 was the corporate blue when I got my car and it had never been repainted. I repainted it the same color but used the 73 Oldsmobile script valve covers. Not that you can see them much on a car with an A/C compressor.

All the '76 Olds Cutlass 350's I've owned/seen have had the metallic blue, they were all Lansing built cars though. I've been finding out all kinds of new stuff on this site lately.

Sweet looking engine pics guys.......keep em coming.

73431Cutlass
06-28-2007, 10:19 PM
When I bought my first car a 76 Supreme it had the metallic blue engine paint, with the timing stamp also. Mine car was from Doraville GA. and sold on VA. around the corner from where I grew up. Although the engine was a left over 75 or earlier engine I believe from what I was told from an Olds guru.

first car
10-05-2008, 08:27 PM
Heres a pic of my 74 under construction.
Yes it runs

W451973
10-06-2008, 01:21 PM
Here is a pic of the motor in my 75 Cutlass, before I sold it. :(

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/73Oldsman/75%20Cutlass/75eng1.jpg